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Rooftop Unit With an Electrical Fault and No Cooling: Diagnosing Contactors, Caps, and Controls

A packaged rooftop unit calling for cool but blowing nothing but air is almost always an electrical story — a contactor that won't pull in, a run cap that's lost its microfarads, or a control circuit that opened somewhere between the thermostat and the contactor coil. R-Pro's field app walks you from symptom to cause to repair steps right on the roof with no signal, while the office ERP turns that same job into a quote, an invoice, and a posted accounting entry without you typing anything twice.

RTU Electrical Faults

On the roof: isolating contactor, cap, or control

Capture the job once, on site

In the office: quote, invoice, and book it

Two tools, one RTU call, zero double entry

R-Pro pairs a field app and an office ERP as two equal tools that work together. On the roof: AI diagnosis from 600+ real cases, nameplate and receipt scanning, voice memos, per-customer history, and on-site receipts — fully offline. In the office: quotes and itemized estimates, invoices and tax invoices with your own country's tax rate, accounting, inventory, suppliers, and customer ledgers. One subscription, 10 languages, and every rooftop job flows straight into your books.

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FAQ

There's 24V at the contactor coil but it won't pull in — is the contactor bad?

Almost certainly. With confirmed 24V across the coil terminals and the contactor still not engaging, the coil is open or the armature is stuck. Swap the contactor (match the coil voltage, pole count, and FLA rating to the nameplate). If it pulls in but the compressor still won't run, check for voltage drop across pitted load contacts — burned points can hold the contactor closed yet starve the compressor.

How do I know if the run capacitor is the cause and not the compressor itself?

A weak or open run cap usually shows as the compressor humming and tripping on its internal overload, or the condenser fan straining or not starting, while everything else has power. Read the cap's actual microfarads with a meter and compare to the nameplate rating — a 45/5 dual cap reading 30/3 is failed even if it looks fine. A genuinely failed compressor typically shows a grounded or open winding or a locked rotor that a new cap won't fix.

The control circuit has no 24V at all — where do I start?

Work the control string backward: check the low-voltage transformer secondary (should read ~24V), then any inline 3–5A control fuse, then every safety in series — low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, float switch, and the thermostat itself. One open safety or a single chewed low-voltage wire drops the whole circuit, and the compressor never gets the command to start.

Can I do all the diagnosis and paperwork without signal on the roof?

Yes. R-Pro's field app — AI diagnosis, nameplate and receipt scanning, voice memos, service history, and on-site receipts — runs fully offline. When your phone reconnects, the job syncs and flows into the office ERP, so the quote, invoice, parts, and accounting are ready without re-entering anything.