R-Pro › Field cases › Ice machines
No Ice Production At All (Hoshizaki/Scotsman Cube Type)
Likely causes
No water supply — mains valve closed, inlet filter clogged, or supply hose kinked
Check: Verify shutoff valve behind unit fully open; disconnect supply hose and check water pressure/flow (normal ≥1.5 bar, ≥300 mL in 10 sec); remove and clean inlet mesh filter. Visually check hose for kinks or flattening
What to do: Fully open valve, clean or replace mesh filter, straighten or replace hose. If pressure below 1 bar, consider adding a booster pump. In hard-water areas, install a pre-filter (carbon/scale inhibitor)
Water inlet solenoid valve coil open or valve stuck closed
Check: Listen for click at water fill cycle; measure coil resistance (AC type 200–400Ω, 24V DC type ~100Ω). If no action while energized, coil or plunger is stuck. Feel valve body for vibration when energized
What to do: If only coil is bad, replace coil only (most slide off/on). If plunger stuck, disassemble valve, remove scale/debris, reassemble or replace entire valve. Run 3 test cycles after replacement
Control board issue — blown fuse or damaged board
Check: For Hoshizaki, enter service mode first (hold WASH button 3 sec with power ON) to read error code — E1 to E8 codes are key clues. Test onboard fuse (typically 5A/250V) for continuity. Cross-check LED blink pattern against manual. Measure relay output voltages at each terminal (water, compressor, hot gas)
What to do: If fuse blown, replace with same rating — if it blows again, find the short cause (solenoid coil, motor) first. Read LED error code and replace the matching part (thermistor, sensor, valve). If the board is burnt, use OEM replacement; on non-Hoshizaki, inspect inline fuses and relays
Water or evaporator thermistor open — freeze cycle won't start
Check: Disconnect thermistor with power off → measure resistance (reference 10kΩ at 25°C ambient, ±10% OK). Dip in ice water and verify resistance jumps above 30kΩ — no response = open. Check wiring terminals for corrosion
What to do: Replace thermistor with same spec (resistance value and connector). Clean or re-crimp corroded terminals. After replacement, confirm temperature reads normal in service mode before running the full cycle
Power issue — phase loss, low voltage, or loose wiring
Check: Measure phase-to-phase voltage at input terminals with multimeter — single-phase 220V ±10%, three-phase 380V ±10%. One phase near 0V = phase loss. Check main connections (breaker, terminal block, contactor) with thermal imager or hand for overheating. Confirm breaker is on
What to do: Phase loss/low voltage: trace to breaker/fuse/upstream supply and fix. For degraded internal terminals, re-crimp; if contactor coil is burnt or contacts pitted, replace contactor. For utility-side issues, bring in a licensed electrician
On Hoshizaki, read the code first — disassemble later. E1 to E8 codes point directly to the cause; tearing down without the code wastes an hour. Scotsman also has LED blink patterns in the manual. If no water, check the shutoff valve first — customers sometimes close it partially.
All 565 cases work offline in R-Pro, with error codes for 62 brands and P-T data for 108 refrigerants.
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